The medina of Fès el-Bali — the old city — is the largest car-free urban area in the world. It contains over 9,000 streets and alleys, many of them unnamed, some barely wide enough for a loaded donkey. Maps don't work well here. GPS loses its conviction within minutes. This is, it turns out, entirely intentional.
Medieval Islamic city planning deliberately created labyrinthine layouts. The logic was defensive — a confusing city is difficult to navigate for an invading army. A thousand years later, the same quality makes Fès one of the most disorienting and alive cities on earth.
How to navigate it
You don't — not fully, and not at first. The medina is best approached as an environment to be experienced rather than conquered. Walk until you find something interesting, then walk further. The main arteries — Talaa Kebira and Talaa Seghira — provide spine-like orientation when you need to re-anchor. The famous tanneries (Chouara) are well-signed precisely because tourists need to find them.
The tannery view: The leather tanneries are best seen from the terrace of the surrounding shops — which will pressure you to buy leather goods. You are not obligated to. Look, thank them, and leave if you wish. Saying "just looking" firmly and cheerfully works.
What to eat
Fès has its own culinary identity, distinct from Marrakech. Look for:
- Bastilla — a pie of pigeon (or chicken), almonds, eggs, and cinnamon under powdered sugar. The sweet-savoury combination sounds strange; it is extraordinary.
- Harira — a thick soup of tomatoes, lentils, chickpeas, and herbs. Sold from street carts in the evening for a few dirhams.
- Méchoui — whole-roasted lamb, sold by weight from butchers near the central square.
Where to stay
A riad inside the medina is the right choice — not for luxury (though some are luxurious) but for location and atmosphere. Waking up to the call to prayer echoing off ancient walls, walking out into the alley before the city wakes — this is what the medina visit is for. Budget at least two nights; one is never enough.
Fès rewards patience and a loose itinerary. Come with nowhere particular to be, a pocket full of dirhams, and a willingness to drink mint tea with strangers. The city will do the rest.